α-arbutinndi β-arbutin ndi mankhwala awiri ofanana omwe nthawi zambiri amagwiritsidwa ntchito mu zinthu zosamalira khungu kuti aziwala komanso kuwunikira khungu. Ngakhale ali ndi kapangidwe kofanana komanso njira yogwirira ntchito, pali kusiyana pang'ono pakati pa awiriwa komwe kungakhudze momwe amagwirira ntchito komanso zotsatirapo zake.
Mwa kapangidwe kake, α-arbutin ndi β-arbutin ndi ma glycosides a hydroquinone, zomwe zikutanthauza kuti ali ndi molekyulu ya shuga yolumikizidwa ku molekyulu ya hydroquinone. Kufanana kwa kapangidwe kake kumeneku kumalola mankhwala onse awiri kuletsa enzyme tyrosinase, yomwe imagwira ntchito popanga melanin. Mwa kuletsa tyrosinase, mankhwala awa angathandize kuchepetsa kupanga melanin, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti khungu likhale lopepuka komanso lofanana.
Kusiyana kwakukulu pakati pa α-arbutin ndi β-arbutin kuli pamalo pomwe glycosidic imalumikizana pakati pa glucose ndi hydroquinone:
α-arbutin: Mu α-arbutin, chomangira cha glycosidic chimalumikizidwa pamalo a alpha a mphete ya hydroquinone. Malo amenewa amakhulupirira kuti amathandizira kukhazikika ndi kusungunuka kwa α-arbutin, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti ikhale yothandiza kwambiri pakhungu. Chomangira cha glycosidic chimachepetsanso kuthekera kwa okosijeni wa hydroquinone, zomwe zingayambitse kupanga mankhwala akuda omwe amatsutsana ndi zotsatira zomwe zimafunidwa pakuwala kwa khungu.
β-arbutin: Mu β-arbutin, chomangira cha glycosidic chimamangiriridwa pamalo a beta a mphete ya hydroquinone. Ngakhale β-arbutin imathandizanso poletsa tyrosinase, ingakhale yosakhazikika bwino kuposa α-arbutin ndipo ingakhale yosavuta kusungunuka. Kusungunuka kumeneku kungayambitse kupanga mankhwala a bulauni omwe sali ofunikira kwambiri pakhungu.
Chifukwa cha kukhazikika kwake komanso kusungunuka kwake, α-arbutin nthawi zambiri imaonedwa kuti ndi njira yothandiza komanso yabwino kwambiri yogwiritsira ntchito posamalira khungu. Amakhulupirira kuti imapereka zotsatira zabwino kwambiri pakuwala khungu ndipo sizingayambitse kusintha kwa mtundu kapena zotsatira zoyipa zomwe sizikufunidwa.
Poganizira zinthu zosamalira khungu zomwe zili ndiarbutin, ndikofunikira kuwerenga chizindikiro cha zosakaniza kuti mudziwe ngati α-arbutin kapena β-arbutin akugwiritsidwa ntchito. Ngakhale kuti mankhwala onsewa akhoza kukhala othandiza, α-arbutin nthawi zambiri imaonedwa ngati chisankho chabwino kwambiri chifukwa cha kukhazikika kwake komanso mphamvu zake.
Ndikofunikanso kudziwa kuti kukhudzidwa ndi khungu la munthu payekha kumatha kusiyana. Anthu ena amatha kukhala ndi zotsatirapo zina monga kuyabwa pakhungu kapena kufiira akamagwiritsa ntchito mankhwala okhala ndi arbutin. Monga momwe zimakhalira ndi zosakaniza zina zilizonse zosamalira khungu, tikulimbikitsidwa kuti muyesere chigamba musanagwiritse ntchito mankhwalawa pakhungu lalikulu komanso kufunsa dokotala wa khungu ngati muli ndi nkhawa ndi zomwe zingachitike.
Pomaliza, α-arbutin ndi β-arbutin ndi ma glycosides a hydroquinone omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito poyeretsa khungu. Komabe, kuyika kwa α-arbutin pa glycosidic bond pamalo a alpha kumapangitsa kuti ikhale yolimba komanso yosungunuka, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti ikhale chisankho chodziwika bwino cha zinthu zosamalira khungu zomwe cholinga chake ndi kuchepetsa kuchuluka kwa pigmentation ndikupangitsa khungu kukhala lofanana.
Nthawi yotumizira: Ogasiti-30-2023
